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	<title>Comments on: Cufflinks born on a woodland path</title>
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	<link>https://www.boo-creations.co.uk/blog/cufflinks-born-on-a-woodland-path/</link>
	<description>This blog is about the many things of interest to me - from photography, jewellery making, my garden, walking, the natural world and the English Lake District. </description>
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		<title>By: Boo's Jewellery</title>
		<link>https://www.boo-creations.co.uk/blog/cufflinks-born-on-a-woodland-path/#comment-308</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Boo's Jewellery]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Feb 2011 22:29:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Yes, I print the design (negative and mirrored) on paper, iron it very carefully and thoroughly onto the prepared sheet metal and then cover every remaining surface of the metal, as it etches all the metal that&#039;s exposed.  &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The blue circuit board paper is what&#039;s usually recommended as a resist, but I found a model makers forum where a chap said he had great success laser printing onto glossy inkjet photo paper as the waxy gloss coating adheres to the toner and sticks to the metal with it when you iron it on, giving rise to a thicker resist layer with nice sharp edges - I found this to work really well for me.  You can see some photos of the resist on the metal before I sealed the edges in this earlier blog:  http://boojewels.blogspot.com/2010/11/new-adventures-in-etching.html]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes, I print the design (negative and mirrored) on paper, iron it very carefully and thoroughly onto the prepared sheet metal and then cover every remaining surface of the metal, as it etches all the metal that&#8217;s exposed.  </p>
<p>The blue circuit board paper is what&#8217;s usually recommended as a resist, but I found a model makers forum where a chap said he had great success laser printing onto glossy inkjet photo paper as the waxy gloss coating adheres to the toner and sticks to the metal with it when you iron it on, giving rise to a thicker resist layer with nice sharp edges &#8211; I found this to work really well for me.  You can see some photos of the resist on the metal before I sealed the edges in this earlier blog:  <a href="http://boojewels.blogspot.com/2010/11/new-adventures-in-etching.html" rel="nofollow">http://boojewels.blogspot.com/2010/11/new-adventures-in-etching.html</a></p>
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		<title>By: eve</title>
		<link>https://www.boo-creations.co.uk/blog/cufflinks-born-on-a-woodland-path/#comment-307</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[eve]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Feb 2011 21:20:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.boo-creations.co.uk/blog/uncategorized/cufflinks-born-on-a-woodland-path/#comment-307</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hope you dont mind me asking you a question, see when you do the etching, do you iron the paper onto the copper, then put it into the soultion? i have done this on sterling silver but i ironed the image onto the metal using this blue paper that they use when making fuse boards, then cold etched it for 3 days, i also used stop of varnish so it would not etch the ends of the metal.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hope you dont mind me asking you a question, see when you do the etching, do you iron the paper onto the copper, then put it into the soultion? i have done this on sterling silver but i ironed the image onto the metal using this blue paper that they use when making fuse boards, then cold etched it for 3 days, i also used stop of varnish so it would not etch the ends of the metal.</p>
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